How to care for baby turtles?
Tarra C asked:
We have 2 baby belly slider turtles, whats the proper way to care for them such as what to feed them, how often to change the water, how often to feed them, etc.
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October 22nd, 2009 at 7:00 am
they have turtle food at the pet store, either little nuggets or flakes
they need a heater light on top of the tank to keep them warm
they need to have a large enough tank (2.5x the size of the turtle wide, 4x deep, 4x (or More) in length)
we feed ours 2x daily, but they would fine with once
change the tank when it gets dirty…i suggest buying a good filter, its rough changing the tank once a week or so when it gets all green.
remember to wash your hands when handling them…
have fun…ours are 8 years old! and they can live to be 40!!
October 23rd, 2009 at 9:34 pm
See safe feeding list at bottom for food. If you have a good filter (see below canister filter) you will only have to do 20 % water changes once a month (adding water when needed) and break it down once a year. This also depends on size of tank. Certainly if it looks dirty clean it. A good link on filtration, Do browse the other articles for lots of other great info!!
You will need:
1.You need the biggest tank you can afford upfront. A good rule of thumb is 10g per inch of shell, so no a 10g would not be fine unless you have a 1in hatchling, but it won’t last you long so it doesn’t make sense to buy small. Sliders can easily grow 12 in or more with proper care! If you can’t afford a large tank, there are other options, a kiddie pool, a preformed pond liner, a rubber maid tote etc. Turtle tanks / the side cut out is a waste of money. Also Sliders like deep water so fill the tank!
2. You need a UVA/UVB light the box must say UVB and it must emit at least 5% UVB but 10% is best.
3. You need a Heat/Basking lamp, this can be a clamp lamp from a hardware store for 5 bucks and a household bulb.
4. You need a Basking spot. This needs to be a place for the turtle to come completly out of the water to dry off and sun himself. You can use a log, a platform, a dock, a ramp, etc as long as the turtle can fit on it comfortably. Basking temps need to be high 80’s low 90’s.
5. You need good filtration. Turtles are messy. Shoot for 2x the gallon size but more is good too. For example if you have a 40g get a filter made for an 80g or bigger.
6. Submersible heater. Depending on where you live, you may need a heater, the water temps should be mid to high 70’s if you cannot achieve this w/out a heater, then get one.
7. A thermometer so you can accurately monitor the temps.
8. Substrate, you may use substrate but do not buy gravel!! Turtles can and will eat it. Usually with dire consequences. A good alternative is river rock bigger than the turtles head upgrading if needed.
9. Decorations/plants (llive or real as long as not toxic see safe plants under food below) a place to hide. This are not absolutly needed but plants and other hiding places reduces stress.
10. A good herp vet. If you want to be a responsible pet owner, you need a good vet BEFORE trouble happens.
11. Food, turtles need a varied diet and need to be fed in the water;
Hatchlings
Hatchlings should be fed everyday for the first year of their lives. They should be given as much as they can eat in 10 to 15 mins time or as much as you could fit into their head if hollow. You can feed them all of it at once or you can slit it up into 2 feedings.
Hatchlings tend to be more Carnivorous than adults, so make sure to check out the suggestions of live and protein-rich foods below for how to supplement accordingly. (Make sure you still give fruits and veggies at this stage!)
Juveniles/Adults
Once your turtle reaches the 4″ mark, we recommend that you change their feeding schedule to every other day. Giving them greens or live plants in between.
Adults tend to become more Omnivorous, so make sure to check out the suggestions of fruits and vegetables below.
Vitamins and Calcium
You should supplement your turtle’s diet with both vitamins and calcium, every third feeding or once a week. To give them vitamins many people will give them a Vitamin Bath once a week. You can also either soak the pellets in a liquid vitamin or dampen them and roll them in a powder vitamin before feeding.
It is recommended you have a light that supplies UVA and at the very least a 5.0 UVB output. The UVB is necessary for the absorption of calcium and vitamin D3. Turtles need both calcium and Vitamin D3 for strong bones and shells.
**Feeding Tip Feedings should be done in a separate container so that you do not have to frequently change the water nor the filter media.
Common Diet Errors
Feeding Cat or Dog Food
Despite what some pet store employees may tell you, turtles should not be fed dog or cat food (Sounds insane, but we’ve heard it!)
Pellet Only Diets
Pellets provide many benefits, but variety is key!
Supplement their diet with veggies, live foods and some fruits. Check out our safe list below.
Giving in to Beggars
Turtles will always beg whether you give in or not- they know you are the supplier of food!
Supplement between feedings with greens or live foods they have to chase to eat. ( Iceberg lettuce is a common filler that doesn’t contain much nutritional value, but will keep them content.)
Safe Feeding List
Commercial Foods (This is just a few of them on the market)
* Tetra Reptomin
* ZooMed’s Aquatic Turtle Food
* Exo Terra
* Wardley’s Reptile Premium Sticks
* HBH Turtle Bites
Frozen/Canned (For treats)
* Spirulina-enriched Brine Shrimp
* Bloodworms
* Plankton
* Krill
* ZooMed’s Can O’Crickets, Grasshoppers, or Meal Worms
Live Foods (Carnivorous)
* Guppies or Rosies Reds (no goldfish they are too fatty and have very little nutritional value)
* Crickets (Gut-Loaded)
* Pinhead Crickets (for smaller turtles)
* Earthworms, Night Crawlers
* Ghost Shrimp
* Aquatic Snails/Apple Snails
* Slugs
* Wax Worms, Super Worms
**Be careful about Wild-Caught foods, they can carry parasites that can be transferred to your turtle. Freezing Wild-Caught foods for a month will help to kill off some parasites.
Fruits (small amounts for treats only)
* Apples
* Bananas
* Grapes
* Melon
* Tomato
* Strawberries
**Should be cut up in small, bite-size or match-like sticks that will be easy for the turtle to bite into and not choke on.
Veggies
* Squash
* Zucchini
* Carrots
* Greens- Red Leaf, Romaine, Collards, Kale, Dandelion Greens
**Stay away from Spinach. Make sure to cut the veggies in bite-size or match-like sticks so your turtle can eat them easily. Iceberg lettuce is a good filler, but contains little/no nutritional value!
Aquatic Plants
* Anacharis
* Duckweed
* Water Hyacinth
* Water Lettuce
* Water Lily
12. A good forum where you can get advice, support and help. I’m partial to the one I belong to lol